a hold down device. This prevents the stock from lifting off the table. Lifting stock is
how most kickbacks start, so setting this each time provides both smooth operation of
the guard as well as the extra protection not afforded by the factory guard.
You will not need to adjust the Shark Riving Knife up and down as you do with the
original. The Shark RK is designed so that is sits just below the blade teeth to allow for
non-through cuts. This design requires the blade be adjusted to the stock each time
the stock thickness changes, but affords better safety because of it as mentioned
above. Unless you are cutting dado's or making a plunge cut (NOT RECOMMENDED), you
can leave the Shark RK in place for all other cuts.
It is imperative that the guard be at the correct height for the material that you are
cutting. You must set the guard for the material thickness each time you change to a
different thickness. Feeding the wrong thickness material can be dangerous. It can
stop material in mid cut. Always check or adjust the guard height for material being
cut.
This is designed this way so that when you remove the guard and clamp, you have a
true riving knife that can be left in place for non-through cuts. This insures that when
a riving knife is needed on the saw, it is there. No fiddle factor. Having to align the
riving knife each and every time you swap them out on these saws can become a real
issue with time constraints as well as ease of use. This lessens the risk of not having a
knife on the saw when needed.
There are now warning labels on all SGK1 shark guards that serve to help as a reminder
to do this for you and others who may use the saw. If you have an older Shark Guard,
send me an email and I will get a warning label with instructions mailed to you.
The images below are an older style RK and clamp, but are similar to the new ones that
ship with the SGK1.
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